Quetzaltenango (Xela) is a popular destination in Guatemala for backpackers and travelers who want to improve or immerse themselves in the Spanish language. I spent 4 weeks there in April 2018. These were some of my favorite things to do in Xela.
1. Attend a Spanish School
There are a ton of Spanish schools in Xela and many of them offer great activities and/or volunteer work. I attended Sol Latino for 4 weeks. It was a great experience which you can read about here. They offer 1-on-1 lessons and fun activities that allow you to easily explore Xela and the surrounding areas on different forms of transportation.
2. Go to Parque Central
If you’re staying in Xela any longer than a few days, you will inevitably end up at Parque Central at some point. It’s a great place to meet friends or go to one of the surrounding cafes, bars or restaurants.
3. Hike to Cerro El Baúl
This is a great way to spend a Sunday morning. You can walk there directly from Parque Central. It’s recommended to go on a Sunday morning as that is when the most people are on the trail (and therefore, the least possibility of running into trouble). It’s a quick little workout where you are rewarded with a beautiful view of the city from above. At the top of Cerro El Baúl are some cement slides and a park. If you’re brave you can slide down them on a cardboard box. The park has some stands selling tortillas and other food, and on a Sunday you can often find families having fiestas in the park.
4. Go to one of the markets and eat all the food
There are several markets to choose from that are open most days of the week. Whether you are at the sprawling Mercado De La Democracia or the smaller Mercado Las Flores, be sure to buy some fresh fruit (where can you get a huge mango in the US for less than $1?) and try a doblada (similar to an empanada).
5. Go to the cemetery
A must visit, the Cementerio General in Xela is a large and colorful cemetery. Different styles and sizes of tombs and mausoleums provide a visual example of the socioeconomic classes of Guatemala. You can also visit the tomb of Vanushka, a gypsy woman who, according to legend, died of heartbreak for having been separated from the love of her life. The story says that anyone who visits her tomb and leaves a note or flowers will be reunited with a lost love.
For safety reasons, you should go to the cemetery in a group and always during the day.
6. Hang out at a cafe
Some of my favorites:
Baviera Cafe, 13 Avenida and 5a Calle, Zona 1
Baviera is a nice, modern cafe. In 2015, there was a huge fire that destroyed almost the entire block, but the cafe has been rebuilt and is beautiful. It’s a great place to have a cappuccino and get some work done.
El Cuartito, 13 Avenida and 7a Calle, Zona 1
Just a couple of blocks from Baviera is El Cuartito. This was my favorite spot! A spacious backyard patio, great coffee, happy hours, a nice beer selection, and live events made this the perfect place to do your homework or relax with a glass of house wine or beer.
Bake Shop, 18 Avenida between 1a and 2a Calle, Zona 3
This Mennonite owned bakery is only open on Tuesdays and Fridays but have really good organic coffee, natural homemade yogurt (no sugar added, which is hard to find around here) and great donuts and varieties of bread!
Xelapan
Nicknamed the Starbucks of Quetzaltenango (by me), you can find a Xelapan almost every few blocks.
7. Drink a soda out of a bag
This isn’t specific to Xela, but if you’ve never had a soda out of a bag, you can do it here. Most tiendas will sell you a small glass bottle of Pepsi for 5Q. The bottle is a deposit, so if you bring it back you get a few of your Q back. Sometimes they will ask you if you want to take the bottle or if you want it in a bag, or you can always just ask them for the bag. This way you will only have to pay 2Q and they will pour the Pepsi into a bag for you and take the bottle back.
8. Catch a Xelajú MC game
The Guatemalan national football team may currently be banned from FIFA, but local clubs and fans still carry on. Quetzaltenango’s local club is Xelajú M.C., in honor of former player and team captain Mario Camposeco who was killed in a plane crash in 1951. Home games are played at the stadium with the same name. Tickets are inexpensive and the environment is lively. You can usually buy the tickets directly at the stadium the day of the game.
9. Go to the gym
If you’re going to be in Xela any longer than a couple of weeks, you may want to invest in a gym membership. Going for a morning jog on the streets of Xela is not the easiest thing to do, what with the traffic and the uneven sidewalks. I went to Energym, which offers reasonable daily, weekly, and monthly rates, as well as locker rentals. They have cardio machines downstairs and a large weight training room upstairs, as well as Zumba, aerobic and spinning classes included.
10. Go out of town
- Hike Laguna de Chicabal
- Visit the Fuentes Georginas Hot Springs in Zunil
- Visit the most colorful church in Central America in San Andrés Xecul
These were all great activities offered by my Spanish school at no extra charge.
Other things to do (that I did not do)
- Take a salsa class! The salsa scene is pretty active in Xela.
- Do yoga at Yoga House
- Volunteer (I spent one day at Caras Alegres, but I wish I had done more). Check out Entremundos for opportunities.
- Hike Santa Maria or Acatenango Volcano (check out Quetzaltrekkers or Altiplano for trips)
More about Xela
Check out my other posts on Xela!
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